Kayakoy and Bulentin Yeri

Kayakoy and Bulentin Yeri 

When visiting Fethiye you should most defiantly set aside at least one day to visit Kayakoy. 
It is an idyllic little village in the valley of the Taurus Mountains. Neatly tucked away between Fethiye and Oludeniz. When you climb the hill to the top, you are able see the Blue Lagoon and the beautiful turquoise waters surrounding Fethiye. 
When driving down from Hisaronu on the slightly steep, slightly potholed, winding road you reach and valley, you immediately want to take a deep breath and fill your lungs with clean fresh village air (unless you visit in winter, then you get more of a warm comforting smoky aroma, as most of the village homes burn wood or coal to keep warm;),

I lived in Kayakoy for one winter many years ago. It was quite an experience for me. For one, it was bustling with activity with the farmers waking up before dawn tending to their fields and animals. It was quiet too, well, except for the sound of farm animals and farmers shout-talking across fields.  We had a cow and her calf in the building next to us, chickens all around and of course roosters crowing all day and night. Forget just hearing them at sunrise, these seemed to worship light. Any light. They especially liked it when they spotted cars headlights in the middle of the night.  They can drive a person to drink, I swear!  
There were goats too. One morning I woke up in daze of confusion. I could hear our neighbours shouting and a lot of clanking and banging on our roof. Turns out one of the goats had climbed on the roof and refused to come down. 
Ah the joys of village life.

Borrowed image of Traditional Turkish  Village Breakfast

One of the best things about living in a village is the abundance of home grown, organic veggies. Warm milk straight from the udder (not my cup of tea if I’m honest but really great for making your own yoghurt and stuff) and loads of free range chicken eggs. I still like to go back to Kaya for traditional village breakfasts as often as I can.

There is great deal of hiking routes into the forest hills or into the Ghost town. You could even go horseback riding or if you are really adventurous they had camel rides the last time I was there!  

Us petting the Camels in Kayakoy

Although the houses seem ancient with their broken stone walls and no roof tops, they are in fact less than a century old. This was a modern city left in ruins after the fall of the Ottoman Empire and what lead to an agreement between Turkey and Greece agreeing to a mutual mandatory population exchange. Kayakoy was originally built in the 1700s, and by the 1900s, was home to as many as 20 000 Greek Orthodox residents. And that is how Karmylassos became Kayakoy.

Taking a little tour around the ruins you a likely to come across two Greek Orthodox churches as well as cisterns and fountains that watered the city and surroundings. There is also a little museum you could visit.

Me shopping for curios at one of the local Arts and Crafts markets

Kayaköy was adopted by the UNESCO as a World Friendship and Peace Village.

Getting to Kayakoy is relatively simple. And takes about 45 minutes or less from Fethiye. You catch the Dolums at the Fethiye -Oludeniz Dolums stop and the fare is about 5.50tl. You could of course take a taxi from Hisaronu as well but I think it’s part of the ‘Turkish experience’ to use the public transport. Many people hike down from Hisaronu in the morning before the sun gets to hot and catch lunch and drink in the village before taking the bus back.

Kayakoy offers many dining options if you find the fresh air has increased your appetite. From simple deliciously organic village breakfasts to traditional Turkish pancakes called Gozleme or proper restaurant style Turkish dishes, you can find it all. There are also a number of BBQ houses. Although the Turkish version is called Kendi Piser Kendi Ye which translates to You Cook You Eat. It’s a fun experience.  They supply the ready lit BBQ Grill so no hassles about getting the fire lit and provide accessories in a restaurant style setting.  You choose your meats from the butchers’ corner in the restaurant. Don’t be afraid to try all the delicious mouth-watering mezes they have on offer. Trust me you won’t be disappointed. These venues are also very kiddy friendly with playgrounds and Jungle Gyms and lots of grass areas for them to run around on. Be adventurous and order the national Turkish drink Raki to go with your meal J

 If you are more into your wine, you won’t be disappointed. Kayakoy has quite a few picturesque little wine houses. Many of the wines are locally produced and they have a many interesting fruit wines which are fun to try.

One of my favourite places to visit in Kayakoy is Bulent‘in Yeri. Its right on the main road into the village and very close to the entrance of the Ghost Village. Its location provides many photo or selfie ops of the old village. The restaurant itself is a very simple setting. You can either sit at the Turkish style, low corner tables which are very laid back, with their traditional throw pillows or simply choose to sit at the tables. 
But the reason for going is not the décor. It’s the most delicious freshly made Gozleme or Turkish pancakes made by the ladies of the house. There is no rush and you can just gear down and relax. Put your phone down, take in the scenery and chill while they prepare your meal. They have quite a few option of pancakes to choose from. Savoury mince, spinach, potatoes, feta cheese, cheddar cheese or mixed. Or if you have a sweet tooth, honey lemon or chocolate ones.  Yumm! I’m getting hungry just thinking of them. 
My daughter loves the potato ones and I can never choose between the mince or the cheesy ones…  They serve it with homemade pickles made of carrots, cabbage and chilli peppers. Wash it down with an Ayran and Bobs your Uncle. They do serve breakfast and other light meals and the usual selection of soft drinks and of course Turkish Tea and Turkish Coffee. 
It really doesn’t get any better than this inexpensive meal. I don’t think we paid more than 30tl for your entire meal of pancakes and drinks for the three of us.

I defiantly recommend it and would encourage you to visit Kayakoy and Bulentin Yeri on your next visit to Fethiye!

Review Table
Location and Accessibility	JJJ	Even though it is quite a way from Fethiye and the bus ride is a bit on the tedious side it is not hard to find.
Atmosphere and Decor	JJJ	I like the relaxed atmosphere and the mix of local and foreigners.
Menu	JJJJ	The isn’t much of a variety at it is a Gozleme house and that’s the beauty of it. What they do serve is perfect and delicious.
Price	JJJJJ	Very affordable.
Service	JJJJ	I always find the service staff very friendly and efficient.

Please remember that this Review is based on my own thoughts and experiences.

Have you been to Kayakoy? Where do you like to eat? Have you been to Bulentin Yeri? Let me know what you think in the Comments Section and if there is a place you have been meaning to go to or have heard about let me know maybe Ill go there next?

Thanks for reading.

X Nicci

Picture of kayakoy by http://mykonut.com -kayakoy-the-ghost-town-in-Fethiye-Turkey